So....I was thinking the other day......I should do a tutorial for a self-lining bib/yoke, very similar to this dress I made for Charlotte last Easter. So I did.
I have a huge thing for bibs....yokes....slobber-catchers....whatever you may call them. I think they add an adorable touch to a dress. I've used them a lot. lol. (each word of that last sentence was a link, by the way. Not joking when I say a lot.)
I loove the grey and teal together! I think pretty much every darn color looks great with grey. (and mustard yellow for that matter...ya with me?)
So...I messed up how the waistband lined up in back with the invisible zip, so I covered it with a quick bow-simply safety pinned on. You could also sew it on, but I don't think fabric bows wash up very well, so I like being able to remove them.
Of course, did this one get removed before I washed it? NOooooope. Do as I say, not as I do, folks.
agh! enough of the cuteness, C. You're killin' me. I love babies in pigtails.
YES SHE IS STILL A BABY.
I may or may not be in denial about this.
So let's get on with it! I won't have instructions for every part of this dress, since mostly it's to show you how to do the yoke. I will show ya what I took pictures of though!
See below for the tutorial!
(fabric from Hancocks, but it didn't have a selvage with info on it, weird huh?)
First, I took a simple bodice pattern (from this dress actually) and cut out 1 piece on the fold, for the front. I did scoop down lower on the front piece. (make sure to mark where you did this on your pattern)
Then for the back, I cut 2 pieces...with 1/2" extra on the fold line, like so. This piece is not cut on the fold...just two pieces of material, with wrong or right sides together when you cut.
Now to make the collar/bib/yoke pattern.
1. First: trace the neckline, center line, and shoulder of the bodice pattern.
2. Then draw a bib shape that you like like so.
3. add the 1/2" to the back piece like you did to the pattern.
4. Do the same for the front bib.
Then I also cut out a test pattern piece on the fold to see how I liked the shape and size.
If you want a regular flat yoke-skip ahead to where I assemble the yoke...otherwise, if you want pleats, read on!
I cut a piece of fabric that was tall enough to fit my pattern piece, and a lot wider. No specific measurements, sorry...but I wasn't sure how much I needed so I over estimated. Better safe than sorry.
Then fold it in half width wise, and iron. At this point I laid out my buttons to see how wide the center would need to be. (I got rid of one of the buttons later on obviously)
Sorry so dark...then I marked where the other side of the center pleat should be.
I then sewed the pleat 1/4" from the ironed over edge. This is where stitching straight really looks good, so take your time!
Then press that seam flat, to the right.
Then at the mark, fold in half again and press. Make sure to use a ruler to keep both ends as straight as possible. Sew down that side 1/4" from the edge as well.
Then measure how far apart you want your pleats to be. I kept mine pretty close.
Continue measuring, folding, ironing, and sewing pleats until you have enough to cut the pattern from. Fold in half, using the center of the center pleat as your center...(probably could have explained that better, oh well)
...then cut out your yoke like so. Also cut one more of the front from regular fabric, and 4 from the back.
1. Pin and sew the yoke lining and outer fabrics together at the shoulders.
2. Press seams open.
3. Pin lining and outer fabric yokes together, and...
4. sew around the outside only!
Back to the yoke.
1. Trim around the outside seam with pinking shears or clip v's into the curves.
2. Turn right sides out and press around the edges. I use a chopstick to help turn tricky spots out.
3. Pin the pleated side of the yoke to the backside of the bodice like so.
4. Sew around the neckline.
Then pin yoke down around the outside...
..and top stitch 1/8" from the edge, carefully.
This is what you should have now! tada! sew on the buttons and you've got an adorable yoke!